Day two in Rjukan and it was back up to Krokan to climb a
few lines we had spotted the day before.
Walking in to the river bed on a full stomach after Ed’s bacon, egg and
cheese wedge sandwich for breakfast, the mood was relaxed and focused.
I started by leading Bullen a WI3 route which had caught my
eye the day prior but looked a little too steep to get my head in the right
mind set yesterday. According to Dean
and Ed. it was much steeper than what they had experienced the year before and
more like WI4....I’ll have that like J.
While I was leading Richy up this route Dean was leading his
Dad up the route on the left edge of the ice wall of Bullen which we have
affectionately called ‘The Scottish Gulley’.
Before I had even hit the steep section Dean was at the top of his
route...A promising start to the day.
Ed. then went on to
lead the first of the steep free hanging icicles of the day...a few steep
controlled moves with precision crampon work saw him at the top of the icicle
and motoring on up to the steep section of ice above. Dean then led the same route in similar style
showing that the ‘youngins’ are not all about brawn. Mean while Richy had spotted a lovely little
line to the right of this route which finished in the same place. Confident climbing and good ice screw
placements were the order of the day. (Grade top end WI4)
Back to my lead and yesterday an icicle which had detached
itself from the main ice sheet, but had somehow had managed to stand securely
in place without falling to the floor, was calling my name ‘Cliff come to
me....lol’ . The problem with this route
was it was a touch too high to solo and I knew from the start I would have to
place a screw in an awkward position...my fears were brought home as I hung out
with a heel hook around the top of the icicle....deep breaths and a little
positive ‘self talk’ and the reassuring encouragement from Richy pushed me to
the top. (Grade top end WI4).
Ed. then went on to lead an unnamed WI3 not made any easier
due to the amount of snow lying on the top...Quite an enjoyable route which
encouraged Richy to lead the same taking a slightly different line to the right
of Ed’s route. This route did a lot to
boost Richy’s confidence after showing his ‘cool’ side and sending a 6 metre vertical
section with a considerable run-out.
Dean then decided to do the third and last free hanging
icicle of the day...A controlled campus move to start got him into some hollow
sounding ice but the young lad held it together and rather nonchalantly
strolled to the top of this steep route.
Dean and Ed. finished their day off with a rapid ascent of
the classic 2*WI4 route ‘Jomfrua’...fat ice and 89% secure hooks found them at
the top...Great leads by both Dean and Ed.
My turn to make tea tonight... Pasta with fish and tomato
sauce with huge slabs of bread and butter accompanied by more whiskey and
copious amounts of chocolate for afters...it costs a lot of money to get a body
like mine ;-)
A great day had by all and psyched for tomorrows adventures.
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