Rjukan Day 4 – Exposure in the Lower Gorge

Tired bodies this morning due to the rest day antics (see previous Blog) dragged themselves out of the motor this morning and descended into the Lower Gorge area for another day of ice frolics. Having not been to Rjukan before (cliff and Richy) everyday is an exciting adventure for us and having the BETA from Ed and Dean has meant less messing around and more climbing. 

The routes in the Lower Gorge, like the current conditions across the whole of Rjukan, were ‘fat’ with perfect ice, albeit making them slightly harder due to them forming more vertically.  Richy and me started on the lovely named route Skrotfossen WI3, with Richy on the lead, he made very little work of this ramp route.  We then moved onto Camillas Foss WI3 *** which Dean had led his Dad up only minutes earlier.  The route deserves its 3 star status especially in its current state...’FAT’.  While we were on Camillas Foss Ed. was leading Dean up another route not found in the guide graded around WI4...a lovely ramp which was easily soloed to get to a very steep amphitheater.

Following these routes we made our way slowly down the gorge to the ‘Swiss Army ‘section which did not resemble the guide book picture at all... ‘REALLY FAT’!  Dean had his sights on the previously mentioned route, unfortunately the Spaniards Richy and me had befriended yesterday were ensconced and looked set to make a day of it.  One of the Spanish guys pointed us further down the Gorge to what he explained was ‘Mucho hielo (lots of ice)...he was not wrong!

We arrived at the foot of Lillebror * WI3 to find that the ice had taken on an enormous form giving many options of routes at WI4 and up to 45/50 meters in height.  Dean and me took the lead and lead the routes together at the same time...this was fun but I think Dean wasn’t impressed with my lack of conversation (I was concentrating J)...However, this was justified when Dean dropped an ice screw up near the top...young boys error ;-) lol.  The routes were excellent and both Dean and myself agreed we didn't want them to end.

Richy was feeling a little ropey today and was keen to get back to the digs but for some reason mentioned about my penchant to get naked in certain climbing situations...it didn’t take much persuasion to get my kit off and pose for the cameras...while making Ed a little uncomfortable. If anyone can remember walnut whips you’ll know what I’m talking about and how cold it really was ;-) hahahahaha.

Back at our cabin Richy has just served an awesome chicken curry with rice and bread...and now everyone is settling down to our usual search for internet signal and a couple of single malt whiskeys.

No plans for tomorrow yet but where ever we go I’m sure the ice will be FAT!!!  J

Check this out!:
http://youtu.be/76e5gr8qn-4