Following the comments from lots of people this week and
over the past few weeks about the difficulties, the team decided to try and see
what all the fuss was about and drop into my favourite ice climbing venue here
in Rjukan, The Lower Gorge! I think a
little knowledge here is useful even starting from the right place helps a
lot!! A few kilometres out of town there
is a large parking area overlooking the
very lower end of the Lower Gorge...This is not the best place....driving on a
further kilometre there is a small parking place, usually big enough to get two
cars in...this time only ours fit. This
parking place puts you straight onto the descent into the Gorge directly
opposite Lillebror, a very long single pitch ice route of WI3.
Many people had been telling us the river crossing, which we
needed to negotiate to get to the routes, was ‘impossible to cross’. However, with a bit of care it was achieved
today safely....if not with a flying dive to ensure as much weight (I have a
lot) was distributed over the heavily snowed up river rocks.
Once ensconced on the other side Dean led up Lillebror which
proved to be completely different from last years outing and certainly steeper
than it looked from below. I think this
is half the attraction of ice climbing, especially here in Rjukan, the routes
are different every year depending on the process the routes have undertaken to
form. The route had some snow on it
making the footholds (crampon placements) difficult to spor or confirm their
security. Ed decided to take a Unnamed line just left of Deans line giving a
good WI3 for him and John.
Following this we moved a little further down the river to
two great lines. I led up the classic
Hjemreisen WI4 which was a tad fragile in places with ‘interesting’ screw
placements. Dean then led up a even
steeper line to the right of this (unnamed) giving a quality outing at the top
end WI4...Meanwhile Ed led Hjemreisen in great style and prepared to bring John
up. John, for those that have been
following this Blog, is on his first Ice trip and in fact his first ‘anything
wintery’ trip. John has the usual mental
battle going on at the moment even though his skills have come on a treat. After climbing the initial steep bits he
decided enough was enough as he reached the upper steep section....rather reluctantly
Ed lowered him...We give him stick later just to show our support of a fellow team
member J.
After the long deep snow climb out of the Gorge everyone was
in agreement that a trip to the cafe was in order...Konditori cakes are phenomenal
and the custard slice would beat Greggs any day!!!
Conditions:
Description above basically covers it ...Park in the right area and you
can easily get to the routes...The surface ice on the routes was getting a
little slushy (+4 degrees on my Needle Sports thermometer) by the end of play
making climbing easier but screw placements a tad dodgy! The river crossing is ‘FUN’.
Thanks for your blog. I'll be in rjukan hytteby from Sunday. You're giving valuable information and pictures about conditions.
ReplyDeletePaul
Pleased its being of some use Paul...We're in number 10 Hytteby if you wanna say hi :-)
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