Three days ago I was climbing on Ben Nevis ....Today I'm still buzzing from
the adventure and the climbing experienced had that day.
 |
| The Orion Face with our route taking the line straight up the middle |
I was invited to go and climb by Ashley Preston, a friend I had made 3
years ago while climbing the classic Raven Crag Gully in the Lake District.
During our discussions on the numerous belays while waiting for others to climb
it turns out that him and his brother (also climbing that day) were the cousins
of a very good friend of mine and that they were actually from Billingham
(where I live).
Now Ash and me have never climbed together and to climb a
serious route like Orion Direct took a certain amount of trust in each others
abilities. I must admit I nearly didn't go as the 7+ hours journey time for a
one day hit was not appealing. However, the conditions being reported on Blogs
and on Facebook, and the forecast of settled weather for a few days ahead, made
me feel I really didn't have a choice....When am I ever going to have another
opportunity.
 |
| Full on exposure - Photo taken by some guys on Zero Gully |
At this stage its worth giving a little background to the route. It’s a
route held in high regard by most winter mountaineers and a very committing
route, as once on, it’s very difficult to escape as the belays are not really
brilliant for abseiling, saying that there are a couple which would be fine but
would need to be linked to others. The other things to consider are the weather
and route conditions.
It’s certainly the
last place I would want to be if a storm hit. There are limited places to hide
from the wind and from spin drift avalanches. The ice/snow conditions,
particularly around the crux traverse are the make and break of the route but
there are other parts where you want good axe placements. The route never gets
technically difficult but all the above add to the apprehension of even
starting the route in the first place.
 |
| Walking in very early |
We decided we were going to be first on the route so we set off from
the North Face Car Park at 0510hrs and steadily plodded up the Allt a Mhuilinn
towards the CIC hut. While walking your mind drifts from positive thoughts to
very negative thoughts...."Do I really want to go through with this?” “of
course I do!!!" "Is Ash up to this?" "Am I up to
this?" "What if a storm hit, what if people are ahead of us?"
Arriving at the CIC hut we were a little disappointed to see there was someone
ahead of us heading up into the area where our route started...surely they
weren't going to be doing our route. I reassured Ash that even if he did do our
route he was soloing (no ropes brave man!) so he would be well above us once we
were organised enough to start. The problem having someone ahead of you is they
inevitably kick down ice on you and it can hurt if you look up at the wrong
time. It turns out that the soloist was no other than another friend Harry
Holmes. (
http://climberharry.blogspot.co.uk/)
who came second in the Dry Tooling competition last February at Sunderland
Wall.
As we slowly made progress towards the foot of the route it’s very difficult
to take in the sheer size of the Orion Face and where the route actually goes.
A lot of classics are like this and its only once you engage on the route
everything falls into place...this route was no exception.
I took the first lead up a steep icy wall which leads to the foot of an icy
groove around 35 meters. Ash lead off up the groove and looked confident...a
few reassuring screws helped and after around 45 meters he made a belay. I ran
up the groove with a big smile on my face...this is where I wanted to be!!! A
few alternate leads saw me belayed at the crux traverse. It was at this point a
fellow North Easterner joined us. Adele Pennington (Everest ascencionist) (
http://www.adelepennington.co.uk/)
has been ticking off the classic winter routes this winter and we had been
friends on Facebook for quite some time but never actually met each other in
person. Adele and her partner Dave Barker were very patient with me and Ash and
we kept them amused with a bit of friendly banter. We hadn't really given much
thought as to who was going to lead this crux section and I was easy either
way. Ash was happy to hand the reins to me and as it happened it was exactly
the type of climbing I revel in, totally absorbing. The crux is a series of
icy/rocky ledges with very little protection available and only once you sink
your axe into the neve (snow ice) above do you feel the confidence returning to
the rightful place.
 |
| The first steep ice pitch |
 |
| Ash on the 2nd pitch in the icy groove |
 |
| A team climbing Zero Gully |
 |
| Ash on the 2nd pitch in the icy groove |
 |
| Ash embarking on the 'Long than we thought' pitch |
A couple more alternate leads saw us at the foot of the icy chimney which we
knew led to the top. Ash took the lead on this one and what a pitch it turned
out to be. Better described as a hanging icy chimney the line swings across the
voids and even has a very exposed traverse and pull up a hanging wall but done
on perfectly placed axes it was a real pleasure. The smiles were on both mine
and Ash's face as we came together at the belay...we knew it was just one more
pitch to the top. I got the glory pitch up a steep snow slope with a couple of
little rock bulges to deal with. As I approached the top I couldn't wait to
feel the warmth of the sun on my face and take in the views I knew were waiting
for me there...however, I should have known it was going too easy. Literally
three steps from the top the rope went tight...only one reason for this, I had
ran all the rope out. This had happened on an earlier pitch and we had to
'simu' climb (climbing at the same time) to get a safe belay. This time around
I knew Ash was on relatively safe ground so wasn't too worried. Ten minutes
later Ash and me were sharing a 'man hug' and congratulating each other on a
job very well done. Adele and Dave joined us and we were soon joined by an
Italian pair and a couple of guys who had just climbed Astral Highway.
 |
| Me starting the Crux traverse |
 |
| Relaxing after reaching safer ground |
 |
| Ash above the belay following the traverse |
 |
| Ash moving towards the Icy hanging chimney |
 |
| Ash looking rather happy |
 |
| Peace to the world - Rather happy myself |
 |
| The view from the top |
We said our goodbyes to everyone and started the long plod off the hill. The
views and weather all around us could not have been better and we felt like two
kids who were enjoying Christmas morning with all their toys. We descended via
the Red Burn a steep but quick way off the hill. The Burn takes you almost to
the edge of the Half Way Lochin. Another hour saw us back at the van in the Car
Park with a can of cider to celebrate...Just what the doctor ordered!
What a totally great experience the whole day
had been...
 |
| The parties at the top |
 |
| Starting the walk down |
To get this feeling of satisfaction requires commitment, confidence, organisation
and a certain amount of skill and we had certainly given it everything.
The drive back home to Teesside via Carlisle
was a long one and unusually for me required a nap along the way, but definitely worth every minute behind the wheel.
 |
| Fantastic weather from the start of the day to the very end |
